Klub MazdaSpeed

Hello ,

I am sorry to write you in English...I am portuguese and cannot speak Polish.

I have found you trough google and i know that many other on MazdaSpeed have a Xedos 9 2.3 Miller converted to run on LPG!

I own a Xedos 9 Miller, year 1999 with 66.000 Kms only, but every company in Portugal says it's impossible to convert the car to LPG. I know it can be done with safety because i found you! Also there is a german Xedos 9 miller on spritmonitor.de that runs on LPG.

Could you please explain me how can it be done? What are the problems ? I suspect installers here do not say it's impossible just because they don't understand the miller cycle!

Please...please...HELP!


Best Regards,

Augusto (Porto; Portugal).

________________Please excuse this Google translation so all can understand_______________

Witaj,

Przykro mi, żeby napisać do ciebie w języku angielskim ... jestem portugalski i nie znają języka polskiego.

Znalazłem google koryta i wiem, że wielu innych na Mazdaspeed mają Xedos 9 2.3 Miller przystosowane do pracy na LPG!

I own Xedos 9 Miller, w 1999 roku z 66.000 Kms tylko, ale każda firma w Portugalii mówi, że to niemożliwe do zamiany samochodu na gaz. Wiem, że można to zrobić z powodu bezpieczeństwa i found you! Nie ma też niemiecki Xedos 9 Miller spritmonitor.de napędzanego gazem płynnym.

Proszę mi wyjaśnić, w jaki sposób można to zrobić? Jakie są problemy? Podejrzewam, instalatorów tu nie powiedzieć, że to niemożliwe tylko dlatego, że nie rozumiem cyklu Miller!

Proszę ... proszę ... HELP!


Z pozdrowieniami,

Augusto (Porto, Portugalia).

--

wiesiek5 napisał(a):Our mazda motor Millery, all have LPG, the assembly is no problem, just Find the class service. There are no problems.
Pozdrawiam cię Augusto Wiesiek.

I confirm that opinion. I have a Miller engine, plus lpg, sequence, and I do not have any problems, the cost from sequence 650 EURO – and the injection liquid to 1000 EURO, assembling without any problems, I greet you Augusto

Thank you Wiesiek and Janusz:

Ok..so will it be a normal installation , like in other V6 engines? The cost here for a V6 install (Prins or BRC) is about 1900 Euros total (with cylindrical tank).

Wiesiek:

U mean there are no special needs because of the lysholm compressor?

Thank you very much guys, you are truelly nice people!

P.S. To moderation, please move to correct thread if needed.

P.P.S Janusz, could you please translate?

ooppsss..

P.P.P.S.: my car
http://www.mazdaworld.net/forums/index. ... ight+thing

Console (if any of you guys need that i'll get it for free):
http://www.mazdaworld.net/forums/index. ... hl=console

Reading Obd (clip and buzzer needed)
http://www.mazdaworld.net/forums/index. ... topic=3379

cuto napisał(a):Ok..so will it be a normal installation , like in other V6 engines?

I'm not an expert but it should be a regular LPG installation, just be sure it's a good one. A friend of mine installed it in his MC engine and it was running strong, no problems at all (it cost ~1K euros for everything). Also bear in mind that the engine should be in a good overall condition. And according to your mileage, your engine is in a good condition indeed

BTW, do you really need an LPG?

cuto napisał(a):P.P.P.S.: my car
http://www.mazdaworld.net/forums/index. ... ight+thing

It looks very nice, but it needs new rims

Regards,
voytecku.

cuto napisał(a):P.P.S Janusz, could you please translate?

translate what?

cuto napisał(a):Reading Obd (clip and buzzer needed)
http://www.mazdaworld.net/forums/index. ... topic=3379

you have in error P-1170
mean error: HO2S 11-INVERSION, Heated oxygen sensor (Front RH)
lambda probe is likely to share, or a combination of plug-in
you doing exactly the same with PL

voytecku napisał(a):It looks very nice, but it needs new rims

rims rims are very nice, original and in good condition, and I have the same

@voytecku

Portugal has one of the highest prices on gas , 1.3 Euros/L. LPG is 60 cents/L. With LPG i would have the power of the miller cycle at the cost of a 1.6 Diesel engine.

@Janusz
Yes i have that error but the car passed inspection with no emiisions.
I love the original rims also!

I am gonna fix that soon, because im gonna change the timing belt and all tensioners: after 8 years of almost no use i bought the car...so belts are needed.

The engine is making a knock after a good run. It only makes that knock when the engine is hot and after a 10 minute stop. Never hear the noise on a cold start.

The knock is exactly this like this one:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7W3gPWvEKqs

No one knows what it is...i bet its the hydraulic tensioner.

Btw...a full timing belt kit...with all tensioners and AT Hydraulic tensioner cost me 300 Euros, imported from USA. Here Mazda was asking 1400 Euros!

Thank you guys!

voytecku napisał(a):It looks very nice, but it needs new rims

--

trzeba przyznać że furkę to ma pierwsza klasa ale kto mu taki kit wcisnął że sie nie da zagazować to nie wiem

Widać takich mają w Portugalii fachowców

Czasem cieszę się że żyję w Polsce bo Polak Potrafi ;p

Pozdrawiam

I am sorry, not even google can translate the last 2 posts :!

azalisz555 napisał(a):trzeba przyznać, że auto pierwsza klasa. ale kto to powiedział ze nie da się zamontować LPG

I must admit that the first class car, but who said it can not be the mount of LPG?

missiako napisał(a):Widać takich mają w Portugalii fachowców oczko
Czasem cieszę się że żyję w Polsce bo Polak Potrafi ;p
Pozdrawiam

You can see these are professionals in Portugal
Sometimes I am glad that I live in Poland because Poles Can do everything,
I greet you

Please tell me more, about knock engine ?. The knock is always morning or always run engine? is the same as the movie?

Thank you Janusz: in fact Portugal has a lot of good installers , but not as good as Poland. I have sent some pictures of a Xedos 9 with LPG to an installer. He replied that a sequncial system by Prins was the one to install..let's see what happens.

As for the Knock: yes it is the same as the one you saw on youtube. It gets louder when you put the car in D, R..etc.

I think it must be something related to the timing belt and/or spark plugs, because the knock only appears when the revs drop a bit from 750 RPM . It never happens when he engine is cold, because , as almost every mazdast, the xedos starts well over 1200 RPMS with a cold engine.

The knock appears usually after a long run under these conditions: after that run, if i stop the car for about 20 minutes and restart, the temperature will be a bit bellow the normal temperature level on warm ( between minimum and midle of the temperature gauge). The knock will appear then. But after a while, when the temperature rises again, the knock will stop.

So..i think it could any belt that is skipping after temperature changes. That or the auto tensioner.

The youtube guy has that knock always...wich is easier to detect. My car does it randomely and for short period. Yesterday i bought some NGK spark plugs and together with a new timing belt kit i will try to fix that this week. I hope its not the supercharger...

One thing is certain...the noise always appear only when RPM's go a bit bellow 700.

Thank you all!

Janusz626 przerzucaj na nasze

bazyl wspaniały napisał(a):Janusz626 przerzucaj na nasze

... tłumaczka googlarka...
... translate google ...


In poland mechanic can install the lpg PORSCHE HEMI engine twin turbo, and Diesel also. and there is no problem:)

I have a few questions:
1. is always a knock on the hot engine, and the D, R, etc. right?
2. you can, increase the idle speed, more (bridge of TEN & GND, and tweak the screw on the throttle the air)
3. how much fuel it burns at 100km?
4. morning, the engine is cold, you have a sea foam?
5. the oil level drops you? if so how much ...
6. you will be, exchanged, candles, lambda probe? all cam (belt, rollers, tensioner ,)... yes.?

I ask because sometimes the miller, burns, central (2) the plunger hole in the left head, higher temperature, the EGR system: (. But then the engine is weak, you may be knocking it burns fuel, Disconnect the battery (graund) and press STOP to 30sec. Mount again, take the ride a little, and check.
Overall, this is not a nice knock, sounds like a pan on the shaft!

1. is always a knock on the hot engine, and the D, R, etc. right?

-when fully warmed NO; when cold NO; only whem temperature is at 60ºC/70ºC, after engine fully warm or cold: no knock. The knock seems to increase on D, R , etc, because the RPM drops a bit when in gear...if i rev the engine it goes away . I just remembered that when you drive with the knock, the engine sounds like theres air running on pipes...maybe its a vaccuum line also.

2. you can, increase the idle speed, more (bridge of TEN & GND, and tweak the screw on the throttle the air)

-The RPM is normal most of the time.

3. how much fuel it burns at 100km?

– After 30.000 KM i have an average of 11,7 L/100. At a steady 100 km /h, in plain road, Board computer shows around 6 L or less.

4. morning, the engine is cold, you have a sea foam?

-Theres no seafoam for sale here . If theres seafoam in Poland ill buy it!

5. the oil level drops you? if so how much ...

– After 5.000 Km, the oil drops a bit, but still above the medium scale....at 10.000 Km the oil is still ok, it never reaches the minimum level.

6. you will be, exchanged, candles, lambda probe? all cam (belt, rollers, tensioner ,)... yes.?

-I have all the material , i hope to have all belts (really all) changed and all tensioners, next week. Also i am waiting for NGK's to arrive in 2 days, from ebay .

I will check the vacuum lines also.

P.S. the guy from youtube never answered me about his car.

I have found a post on the internet , from a few years (can't remember the page, but i saved it). It reports the exact situation i have. As you can see, a mechanic had an opinion that it was the timing belt.

"97 Mazda Millennia, Engine Knock
Q: I have a great handling, fast little road car, an upscale '97 Mazda Millennia V6 with close to 80k miles on it. Here is my question: For the past year or more, after driving highway speeds for a time and I come in to gas up or let it idle, I get a LOUD repeated banging coming from the front of the engine. It almost sounds like a rod knocking (on my Dad's old '41 Chevy). But if I leave it idle for five minutes or so or if I turn it off and start it again after five or ten minutes, the sound has disappeared. I have had the fan belt replaced twice in the last year and a half, and re-tightened once. I don't want to mislead you, but it sounds to me like some kind of a belt may have stretched after extended use, but then shrink back to the right size again when cool. I can't isolate the noise by just listening by ear (I don't have a stethoscope), but are there timing belts or some belts just inside the front covers on my engine that it could be? I would hate to have one break on me or slip out of place or whatever and leave me stalled by the roadside.
– Mike
A: I think it would be a good idea to have the hydraulic belt tensioner for the timing belt inspected. Many, but not all engines that have timing belts, use an automatic tensioning device to assure that proper timing belt tension is maintained. This results in a quieter operating timing belt, allowing for stretching/growth of the timing belt with age and extends timing belt life. At high speeds the timing belt exerts an outward force as it travels its path. This outward force causes the tensioner to retract. If the tensioner is weak, after high speed operation, it will not correctly extend and remove the slack in the timing belt in a timely fashion. A loose timing belt can cause a slapping noise that sounds like an engine mechanical problem. Shutting the engine off allows the tensioner to extend and remove the slack in the timing belt. On start-up the noise is gone. With the mileage on your engine you're due for a timing belt replacement. When the timing belt is being replaced inspection of the tensioner should be performed. There should be no signs of oil leaks from the tensioner and there is a specified free length. If there are signs of oil leakage or the free length is too great the tensioner must be replaced! For folks that are going for the second timing belt replacement, I always replace the auto tensioner. There's too much at stake if the tensioner should fail. Once the timing covers are removed you'll likely find the cause for your noise. "

Sorry for the long posts, but you guys really are trying to help more than ANYONE else, including tht USA forum!

Pozdrawiam mazdaspeed!

I think that the best you can do is come to Poland and go to Jaksa car service or visit wiesiek5 from Dębica

And remember-don't go to AZ AUTO on Puławska, Warsaw

best regards
missiako

Yes..from what i have seen so far Wiesiek is a magician with the miller! Too bad i dont have anyone that knows 1/10 of what he does (not even at mazda, they dont know the car, and mine is the only miller cycle in Portugal).

cuto don't wory in UK no body know what this is LPG instalaction and mechanic in UK never repair parts just change parts for new and this is all. Do You heave LPG station in Portugal??? Or Yes You are lucky guy. You car is very nice and in good condition. I thing mechanic in You country he don't know how make doing this and he tell You I can't. Maybe You must come to Poland and must doing this here.
I sorry my English it's not good but I know mechanic for border he is not good but in Poland we have more good mechanic.

Greeting,
radar88